Someone comes in shedding heavily. Nothing has changed, they say. Life is fine. They have been well. They cannot think of a single thing.
So we go back further. Not to last month, to three or four months ago. And often, somewhere in there, is a chest infection that took a while to shake, or a fortnight of barely eating during a house move, or an operation, or a birth, or the week everything went wrong.
What's happening at the follicle
Hair does not grow continuously. Each follicle cycles: a long growing phase lasting years, a brief transitional phase, then a resting phase of roughly three months, at the end of which the hair is released and a new one begins. At any given time most of your follicles are growing and a minority are resting, out of step with each other, which is why you shed steadily rather than in waves.
When the body meets something significant (illness, fever, surgery, sudden weight loss, a sharp drop in iron stores, a substantial hormonal shift) a proportion of growing follicles can switch early into the resting phase. Nothing visible happens. The hair stays in place, held in the follicle, for its three months.
By the time you can see it, the thing that caused it has usually been and gone.
Then they release, more or less together. That is the handfuls in the shower. And it is why the timing feels so arbitrary: the shedding is not a response to what is happening now, it is an echo of what happened a season ago.
Why this matters practically
Three things follow from it.
- The cause is in the past, so look there. When someone asks what changed, they usually mean recently. Go back four to six months, not four to six weeks, and be specific about dates.
- Recent changes are usually not the culprit. The shampoo you started three weeks before the shedding began almost certainly did not do this. The hair cycle does not move that fast.
- Improvement is also delayed. If the trigger is identified and addressed today, the shedding will not stop today. Follicles already committed to resting will still release. Expect weeks before shedding settles and months before density visibly recovers, and be sceptical of anything claiming to work faster than the biology allows.
The awkward consequence
This delay is also why so many treatments get credit they have not earned. If you start something at the peak of a shedding episode, which is exactly when people start things, it will very often be followed by improvement, because the episode was going to end anyway. The product did not do it. Time did.
This is not an argument against treatment. It is an argument for knowing what you are treating and how long it should take, so that you can tell the difference between something working and something coinciding.
How to use the delay
Write a timeline. Month by month, going back a year. Illnesses, medications started and stopped, operations, births, diets, periods of not eating properly, bereavements, moves, a stretch of very bad sleep. Do not filter for relevance. You are not the one who should decide what counts.
Then mark when the shedding began, and look at the three to four months before that mark. In a large proportion of cases the answer is sitting in that window, and it has been the whole time.
Note
A timeline is the single most useful thing you can bring to any appointment about your hair, mine or a doctor's. It takes twenty minutes and it is more informative than most tests.